THE HEART AND SOUL OF NEW ORLEANS
Jazz, voodoo and street parties
New Orleans has been through a lot lately and is still struggling to get back on its feet. The people of New Orleans are proving to be the true heroes of the moment, who are seemingly getting on with what is needed to be done while the political class continues to hurl blame from one side to another for the slow response being given to the city’s needs.
Rebuilding this classic city is a mammoth task, not only because the swelling waters of the last storm destroyed so much, but also because New Orleans has been a magnet for tourists from around the world for so many reasons and for so long. It is the home of Jazz and birthplace of Louis Armstrong, it attracts millions each year for its famous Mardi Gras, its voodoo tales, grand old mansions and, of course, for its unique charm.
Many of the city’s stunning centenarian buildings still await the repairs needed to regain its renaissance beauty, but the charm is still there. The music can still be heard in every corner of the city, and somehow, the serene, amiable drawl of the South persists in the heart and soul of the people you meet there.
And this is why tourists are beginning to return. While New Orleans continues to struggle with its resurrection, some just can’t wait any longer. It is indeed said that once you go to New Orleans, you’ll need to go back again.
The European-style villas of the French Quarter have those romantic wrought-iron balconies reminiscent of 18th century France. Each balcony presents its own array of colorful flowers. Shade is provided by immense banana trees. And everywhere you go, there is music.
There’s music on the streets, in the churches, and in every restaurant and bar that is open. There’s African, Cuban, Jazz, Blues and Hip Hop. And street musicians delight walkers-by with the classics of Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington.
Bourbon Street is as wild as New Orleans gets. Lively bars cater to all tastes, there are colorful souvenir stores where you can purchase voodoo dolls, beads and spells, and by night the street is taken over by animated drinking parties that paint the street red every night and for no particular reason.
There are quieter spaces just around the corner, however, where the likes of Tennessee Williams would come to relax and enjoy the soothing calm of a humid Summer’s evening.
But at any given time of the year, New Orleans will present visitors with a lively celebration of some sort, from February’s Mardi Gras to numerous music Festivals running throughout the rest of the year. Any chance given for a street party, and New Orleans will gladly take it. It is that “joix de vivre” culture it is best known for around the world, and despite the tragedy inflicted by the swelling rivers, the tradition is maintained.
Of course, New Orleans is a city fascinated with the supernatural. Many will tell stories of spirits haunting the city and ancient tragedies that were lived in the grand old mansions of the French Quarter. Dumaine Street is where you’ll want to go for voodoo dolls, palm reading and special spells.
Finding Jazz
Given the destruction of the storm, some places have had difficulty in keeping their doors open, but below is a list covering a selection of places to hear authentic Jazz in New Orleans.
Preservation Hall (St. Peter Street)
Tradition is what makes this place a main attraction for all Jazz-lovers. The band will take requests, which are paid for, and you can sit and listen to the old tunes being played for as long as they go on for.
Palm Court Café (1204 Decatur Street)
The menu offers the best of Creole cuisine in the warehouse, which dates back to the 19th Centure.
Other top places :
House of Blues on 225 Decatur
Snug Harbor on 626 Frenchmen Street
Le Bon Temps Roulé on 4801 Magazine Street
Funky Butt on 714 North Rampart
Donna's on 800 North Rampart
Tipitina's on 501 Napoleon
Eateries
Eating out in New Orleans is another experience. With influences from Europe, the Caribbean and Cajun New Orleans offers diners a mixed, unique and tasty cuisine that combines the rich heritage from each place.
Getting there
From Europe, there are direct flights from Paris and from London. Alternatively, you can fly to Atlanta, in Georgia, and connect to New Orleans.
Best time to go
Summers are extremely hot and humid, which makes the city somewhat sleepier than at any other time of the year. February is Mardi Gras time. Book early or be left behind. Throughout the year, though, there are a number of Jazz Festivals music lovers will revel in, such as the Jazzfest held traditionally in April and the SwampFest held in October.
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